DRAGSTAR / V-STAR MODIFY TIPS

How to Build Your Own Passing Lamps Floorboards for the V-Star How to Modify Your Stock Exhaust
How to Install Custom Floorboards How to Lower Your V-Star Slash Cutting Stock Pipes
How to Hide Handlebar Wires Ram Air Kit Do It Yourself Seat Studs
  How to Make A Trailer-Hook  

 

How to Build Your Own Passing Lamps

Bend the clamps open with big pliers and a vice to get them over the turn signal mounting bars,
then crimp them back down flat before bolting lamp housings to them.
Since it's chrome to chrome and a "perfect fit," put a thickness of that shiny metallic tape (sold with the AC ductwork at hardware store) around the bar first to give it something to grip to.

An alternative would be to use the 1" diameter 3-piece clamps on page 56 with a 1"-to-7/8" spacer.
At any rate, I used lock washers.
Use 3M crimp-type 3-way connectors (they have silicone sealer inside - no corrosion!) and attached to the black wire inside headlight housing.

They're on with high or low beams but you can wire 'em up to suit.
Put a switch in the speedo housing opposite the trip reset. Pretty
simple.
Ad a nut and washer to the housing mounting shaft - the one shown above the clamp.
Don't use the curved big washers that came with the housings. 
CLAMP
Also, a better explanation of the wiring: 

The 3M connector has 3 holes.
You just jam the wires in and crimp with pliers for a worry-free connection.
In this case, put the two wires coming from the lamps in, then a third piece of wire (zip cord, lamp cord, whatever) about a foot long.
Crimp it then hid this whole thing behind the plastic "chrome" cover on the forks, & dressed it up with cable ties.
Then ran that 3rd wire up into the hole in the back of the headlight assembly.
Remove the 2 screws holding the bezel on, and used a crimp-type connector to hook up to the black wire.

This time, the kind of connector you use to hook up trailer lights.
The nice thing about these is you don't have to cut any wires.
It opens up like a hot-dog bun, the headlight wire goes in like a hot-dog,
then you jam the wire from the passing lamps into the other hole in the connector, close the connector cover, crimp with pliers and you're done.

Clean and neat - and undoable - with no soldering, no wire nuts, no ugly electrical tape or heatshrink tubing. 

 
How to Install
Custom Chrome Mini Floorboards on a V-Star.

Remove stock foot pegs, retain parts, return springs should be used with the floorboards. Drill out foot peg mount pin hole to 3/8, it may be necessary to remove engine guards, if fitted, and shift pedal to ensure that the holes are drilled true, (straight). See Pic #1 & Pic #2 
 
 Use a 3/8"-16 stainless steel by 2" bolt to hold the floorboard pin, install it with the stock spring, put a stainless flat washer between the mount and spring and 2-flat washers on the other side, slide the bolt through the clevis, spring and washers, use a nut and lockwasher-ring to retain the bolt, tighten enough to retain it without binding the pin. See Pic #3 
 
 Now at this time you can attach the floorboard to the pin, the floorboard will be low in front and hang down on the outside, on the front of the clevis mark the center of the floorboard clevis pin, position the mark far enough in from the edge to give clearance for a 1/4"-20 bolt, mark the center drill and tap the hole, now install a 1/4"-20x1/2" bolt with a jam nut on it, screw the bolt in until it contacts the pin and adjust the floorboard to the position you're most comfortable with then lock the jam nut. I used the same procedure on both sides and it worked real well.
 I recommend using the springs as this allows the boards to fold up and back when required, a ridged mount could cause a problem if they contacted
the road.

Finished Installation viewed from driver's seat
Installed Floorboards,  the complete assembly viewed from the riders seat. 

Pic #1
Pic #1 This is the top view of the stock footpeg mount.
The peg has been removed. 
It shows the original pin hole has been enlarged to 3/8 inch. 
Also shows the
floorboard positioning setscrew/ jam nut installed.
Pic #2
Pic #2 This shows the stock footpeg mount from the side and shows the location of the floorboard positioning setscrew/jam nut.

Pic #3
Pic #3 This shows the same mount with the floorboard mounting pin installed and ready for the final step, installing the actual floorboard.
 

 

How to Hide Handlebar Wires
(The Coolest Way)
Running wires inside your handlebars is pretty time consuming and requires patience. 
The following instructions detail how to do it.
The one thing that makes the way I did it nicer than most is that I covered the only area where the wires would be visible with 1-3/8” chrome valve stem covers available from any auto parts store.

  Figure 1Figure 1
 

1. Detach the wires and switch control housings from the handlebars, cut each group of wires about 6 inches from the switch housings.
Remove the silver insulation over these wires. Put the switch housings away, because you won’t need them for a little while.

2. I chose to run the wires through the top triple clamp for a cleaner appearance with chrome caps to cover the wires between the triple clamps and the handlebars.
(This requires drilling 2 holes in the triple clamp, which may not be for somebody who hasn’t much experience with this kind of work).
You could also just run them in front of the triple clamp and up into the holes in the handlebars.

3. To drill the holes through the triple clamp:
Using a metal punch, mark a point on the front of the handlebars next to where the riser clamps split.
This gives you a point to line the handlebars up and to accurately rotate them 90 degrees. Remove the handlebars.
With a metal punch mark 2 points on your triple clamp using the dimensions from figure 2. Drill a small 1/16” hole to start with.
This way you give the bigger drills a better hole to center on, as well as can make any small changes before you commit to drilling the final hole.
I used 2 drill bits, a 13/32” for the hole and a
7/16”. Start with the 7/16” bit first and drill till you have a wall about 1/16” high. Finish the hole with the 13/32”  bit.
This gives you a lip for the chrome covers to sit in (see figure 3 for sort of cross sectional view.)

4. The silver insulation is too thick to fit through these holes, so cut it off.
You want to cut off enough so that when you pull the wires through the holes in the triple clamp, the insulation is flush up to the underside of the triple clamp and you have enough slack to turn the handlebars lock to lock.

5. Put the handlebars back on and rotate them towards the gas tank so that the mark you made on the handlebars in step 3 is rotated 90 degrees from where it’s supposed to be.
Using the metal punch make 2 marks 5/8” inside the handlebar clamps on the handlebars (This is the same dimension you used for marking the holes in the triple clamp, since the wires are going to travel in a straight line between these 4 holes.)
Using a 3/8” drill bit, drill the holes in the bottom of the handlebars.

6. Rotate the handlebars so that you can drill holes where the switch housings go.
The left side has so many wires that I drilled two holes for
them to come out of. Look carefully at the inside of the switch housings, and you’ll see where there is space for the wires to go. 
I can’t stress enough how important it is to visualize where the wires are going.
Make sure you have a clear understanding of what the end result should look like before you pick up the drill.

7. For the left side, you need to drill 2 holes using the dimensions from figure 4.
The left hole is 3/8” and slightly above center while the other hole is 1/2” and slightly below center. 
I ran the wires for the hi-lo beam switch through the first hole slightly above center on the bars and the rest of the wires through the second hole slightly below center.

8. For the right side, use the dimensions from figure 5 to mark the handlebars. Use a 3/8”  bit to drill the hole.
Now that your done drilling, clean up all of the holes with a file or Dremel tool so that there aren’t any sharp edges to cut the wires.

9. Solder on extensions about 12” to the wires coming through the triple clamp and cover the joints with heat shrink tubing.

10. The 1-3/8” chrome valve stem covers are exactly the right length, but you’ll need to take a 1” grinding wheel to the end with the smaller opening to create a seamless appearance where the covers meet up with the handlebars (see figure 6).
Grind just enough so that you don’t change the overall length of the cover,
but have a smooth arc that will follow the diameter of the handlebars.
Slide the covers over the wires coming through the triple clamp.

11. Your in the home stretch now. Fish the wires through the handlebars.
Baby powder helps (Thanks Alex) make this job easier. 
If the wires are too flimsy to go through on their own, take a wire coat hanger, cut and straighten it out and tape the wires to one end and feed them through.
Unless you have exact color matches for your extensions, you should label each wire as you fish it through to avoid problems later.

12. Unbolt the handlebars and set the chrome covers in place between the triple clamps and handlebars. This is kind of a juggling act so take your time and get someone else to help you. Once everything is in place tighten the handlebars down.

13. Pull the wires as snug as you can get them pushing them through the triple clamp and pulling through the holes in the handlebars. 

14. Doing one wire at a time, trim the extensions so that you have about 3” outside of the handlebars.
Solder it to the wire coming off of the switch housing  and covering the joint with heatshrink tubing.
You should have about 9” of wire hanging outside of the handlebars when finished. 

15. Push the wires into the handlebars towards the handgrips, the opposite direction of where the wires are coming from.
You can pull them from the openings on either end of the handlebars with needle-nose pliers if you have both grips off.
Finish screwing everything back together.

 

Figure 3Figure 3 Figure 4Figure 4
Figure 5Figure 5 Figure 6Figure 6

 
Hidden Wires

Here is a simple way to hide the handlebar wires and clean up that area.

required parts

You will need the following parts & tools:
Drill with 3/8" bit , Phillips head driver
8 conductor phone wire , notepad and pen
Solder , Heat shrink wrap ,electrical tape
Round file , Butane lighter and soldering gun.

 

You will start by removing the controls from the bar.
You can leave the grips and mirror mounts.
Just remove the end caps from the grips.
angledholeangledhole2entryhole

Drill a hole into the bar on each side in a location that will be covered by the controls.
Angle this hole as much as possible toward the center of the bike.
Also drill a hole in the lower part of the bar (in the bend ) for the wires to enter the bar.
Angle these holes toward the bars end.
Use the round file to smoothen these holes after drilling.

Do this step very thoughtfully to prevent chaffing of the wires.
Make sure there are no rough edges inside the bar.

cutherewiresplicebar-end
Now pull the wiring harness away from the fork area and cut the wires in a staggered fashion .
Make each wire approx. 1/4" longer than the next one .
Doing this will ensure no wire will touch another after they are soldered.
Solder a length of phone cable to the wires to come out the bars end.
You may need to add a couple of individual wires to one side as some controls have more than 8 wires on one side.
After soldering the wires and writing down the matching colors on a notepad ,
apply heat shrink to the entire length of the cable before pushing through the hole you drilled in the bottom of the bars.
You are 90% finished at this point .
Using the holes that were drilled under the control housing ,
reroute the control wires to the end of the bars.
Wrapping them tightly in electrical tape will make this easier .
Using the notes on wire colors that you made when splicing the wires ,
reconnect at the bars end using as little wire hanging out as possible.
You must push this wire back into the bar after wrapping the connections with tape.
That's it ....You are finished !!
bars-rear
bars

 

Floorboards for the V-Star
 
The idea for this procedure actually came from a really helpful salesman from a HD shop! The idea was to leave the stock footpegs on the bike but remove the rubber pad that is bolted on and then fit the floorboard onto the remaining part of the footpeg. The picture to the right shows the footpeg rubber removed. It also shows some of the grinding that needed to that needed to be done to fit the floorboard on.
 "GRINDING?" I here you ask... As you can see from the photo on the right the floorboard had two long "tabs" with holes drilled through them that were just a little too narrow to fit straight onto the footpeg. So out came the angle-grinder and in a couple of minutes, the 'board would sit in place OK, but still not quite right. On closer inspection, it was the little upkicked "tail" at the end of the peg that made the 'board sit funny. So the angle-grinder came into use again and I just cut off the "tail" and made the whole peg flat.
The floorboards did come with some mounting hardware that included a clevis mount but all that was required was the supplied bolt and self-locking nut. I fit the board to the peg and used it as a guide to drill a hole through the footpeg. Bolted the floorboard in place and it was just perfect. The size of the 'board is about 7" long by 4" wide. Any wider or longer than this and the floorboard would interfere with the kickstand or foot controls. But as you can see from the picture, the floorboard sits perfectly within those confines and when it is pushed back (like it would be if you go too sharply around a corner) again it does not hit or interfere with any of the controls or frame. It even springs back nicely just like the original peg!

There are two things that I do need to warn you about though.
1. Ground clearance is reduced quite a bit as I am sure you would have guessed but it is a little disconcerting at first. You just learn to take it easier, which I guess is what it's all about anyway. 
2. You do get a little more vibration happening on your feet. If you look closely at the rubber mounts that fit to your 'pegs, they actually are a clever design that involves a cushioning air pocket. The floorboards don't have this and as such there is a "buzz" on your feet but really nothing that I can say annoys me or gives me any discomfort, even on a long trip.

 

 
How to Lower Your V-Star
 
Tools Needed:
Electric Drill (1/2" drive) ,Small drill bit (for pilot hole)
1/2" Drill bits (the longer the better)
Yamaha V-Star tool kit ,Pry Bars
Assorted screw drivers
Magnet ,Towels or blanket to cover tank and fender while working.

Getting Started:
Remove both side covers and the seat. 
Cover fender and tank to keep from being scratched during the work. 
Set the shock to 6 or 7 depending on weight to be carried.
Locate the bolt that holds the mono shock.
Remove the bolt and with a pry bar push down on the spring and move the shock out of the way.
Measure one inch forward from the edge of the factory hole to the center of the new hole.
With a center punch mark the center of the new hole, this will allow you to start drilling here and keep the bit from moving out of position.
(If you make the hole a little bit more forward, it is ok the more forward you go the more stiff the ride)
Drill with a smaller size bit and then move to a bigger one to make a hole about half inch in diameter, big enough for the bolt to go in.
Make sure the holes are in line with the other. If the drill bit is long enough, it will mark the hole on the other side for you make sure is in line before drilling through the other side.
Once the hole is finished, use  the pry bar move the spring up and then align the shock in front of the new hole.
 Replace the bolt back through the new hole, since the new hole has no shoulders the bolt will be longer now. If you want you can put washers on each side to compensate.
Make sure the shock goes all the way forward, otherwise it will not go down 4 inches.
If the wire harness is on the way just push it aside, be careful not to drill through it.
The reason for the magnet is to pick up the metal flakes while you drill, a clean job.
Bolt it all back together and go for a test ride, adjust the shock according to your weight. 










How to Make A Trailer-hook

Because the shop asked 350 euro's for a trailer-hook,I decided to make one myself.
I bought a used knob and for about 15 euro's iron.

I used an old steer and remodelded it and welded the used knob on it.
Because of the shaft-drive the construction is not symetric,
but the knob is in the middle of the fender.

 

A twisted iron rod is welded on the old steer and on the end of it a plate is welded.
The plate is bolded on the footrest.

An iron rod between the fenderstrut and the trailerhook-rod keeps it in line with the exhaust.

Its simple, but it works!!
When my bags are in place, the construction is almost not seen.

Mount on fenderstrut

The connector for the electrics is mounted in de tip of the rearfender, invisible when not used.

Mount on frame


Ram Air Kit This mod is for the Yamaha 650 VStar only

installedinstalled
  I think the air FROM the filter to the carbs can flow as much if not more than the otherwise stock engine can pull.
The restriction seems to be INSIDE the canister, from the outside air into the filter. It has but one small inlet hole on one side of the filter.
To improve the air intake,
cut a slot directly in front of this inlet ( 1 1/4" X 2 1/4" ) along with two other 1" inlet holes inside the chamber .
 
Air Inlet Not meant to replace the otherwise fine BAK or GAK but just a low cost alternative for comparable power.
If you already have free flowing pipes and a jet kit , this will only cost you time.
Works great with the factory air filter and even better with the K&N replacement filter.
You can even Cut and Gut your stock pipes.
  Don't have a jet kit??? Well then, modifying the factory jets and needles will work too. Just takes a bit more time.
  If you are familiar with the carbs this will be a snap .
A professional shop should be able to do this for you for no more than $120 in labor .
I would only add that if you do this yourself that you place a screwdriver on the factory carb screws and tap lightly with a hammer before ever trying to loosen them.
They are Brass and will strip if you try to remove before doing this.
This will remove them easily.
Advantages:
  • All together it is barely noticeable, maintaining the stock appearance.
  • You don't have to take the tank off to clean filter.
  • The filter gets colder air as opposed to hot air under the tank.
  • No oily blowback on top of engine from the crankcase vent tube.
  • No loud "Sucking" sound from under the tank.
  • @ 60 MPG solo / 55 two up with windshield
  • Roughly a "FREE" mod
Required Parts Our needles used the #4 slot of the cobra jet kit and a 1.2 mm drill bit to drill out factory jets to make a 120 jet.
(May have to use up to # 125 jets with a K&N replacement filter or higher altitude) The K&N does make a difference at high speeds (especially above 65 MPH).
Cutting a new groove across the top line of the letter "T" inscribed on the stock needles is equivalent to #4 more or less on the Cobra kit .
You can shim to make finer adjustments. reqparts.jpg (45303 bytes)
  Below are pics of the modified airbox with the stock filter.
Jet and needle settings may change slightly according to the part of the country you ride in but the basics are the same. 
May have to use up to #125 jets or as small as #110 depending on altitude and pipe modification OR use of K&N filter.
Also pics of the required parts to modify the stock jets/needles.
Just place needle in a Dremel tool etc. . . . and use a thin Dremel tool cutoff wheel to cut two or more additional slots into the needle under the factory slot. (cut just deep enough to allow the clip to grab .
The stock notch will be a good guide to depth) Drill out the factory jets with the correct size bit for your application and that's it.
Just a bit of fine tuning from there. The standard setting for the mixture screws is 3 1/2 turns out. This seems to work fine with this setup as well .
intakhole.JPG (201045 bytes)holes.jpg (32977 bytes)facneedlegrv.JPG (44334 bytes)backplate.JPG (41578 bytes)

  I have a stock 650 and a RAK'ed one and the difference is significant. Definitely is Equal to the Baron Big Air Kit (on the 650) .  It just doesn't have to have the throttle as wide open to maintain a given speed, hence the better mileage.
Final note : Leave the factory hole for air in the rear of the airbox.
It acts as a relief valve for the excessive air being rammed in at high speeds.
Plugging this will result in the carbs receiving too much air under pressure at speeds above 65 MPH.
Also relieves excessive pressure when riding in Gusting headwind.
  The Dyno readings tell all when compared to other kits costing more .(And that's without air being forced into the canister)
Dyno technician stated the this was the BEST 650 tested (Best power curve ) at Hot Springs.

dynoporky.jpg (69853 bytes)
dyno600.jpg (138955 bytes)
Dyno reading
Dyno Compared

 
How to Modify Your Stock Exhaust

The following exhaust modifications will bring your Vstar exhaust as close to a Harley as I’ve heard.
It is time consuming, frustrating, might make your knuckles bleed, and MIGHT VOID YOUR WARRANTY, but cruise downtown in 3rd, crack it...and watch heads turn.

REMOVING THE CONES……30 MINUTES
Inside your factory exhaust is a black cone, which is welded onto the final exhaust pipe.
This cone needs to be removed. A 1” drill saw bit, drilled center will break the weld.
Using the saw bit will be a little messy, but we will clean up later.

1” drill saw bit is used to cut the bolt hole in a door.  
 
REMOVING THE PLATE…..30 MINUTES
Once the cone is removed, you will see a rear plate holding the final exhaust pipe in place.  Remove this plate.
Drill holes around the outer edge of the plate until all that's left of the plate is a small piece between the holes.
Once you have all these holes drilled, a small hacksaw blade will finish the job of removing the rest of the plate.
Once the plate is gone, the final exhaust pipe will be hanging freely in the center of the exhaust hole.

REMOVING THE PIPE……1 HOUR…30 MINUTES
Now you must remove the final exhaust pipe.  Place something firm into the pipe, a rod, a thin broom stick, and rotate it in a circular motion until the welds at the other end of the pipe break.  You will notice the pipe getting looser as the welds weaken.  The welds break on the inside of the exhaust, and it will appear that your final pipe is stuck on the other end, behind the plate, because, holy S#@T you can't pull it out.
It is stuck, but this is not a problem.

The welds you just broke are on a soft metal plate.  A long screwdriver and a hammer, or a long drill bit, or a chisel,  will enlarge the holes to allow the weld to pass through, so you can remove the pipe. 

CLEAN UP….. 30 MINUTES
Using a file, or a screwdriver & hammer, file, cut, or fold back any jagged edges of metal inside the exhaust.
Mask around the outside exhaust, covering the chrome at the opening.
Using a heat resistant flat black, give the inside a good coat of paint. Let dry.

This exhaust will now let you run with the big boys.  Fairly loud, much deeper, but not as thunderous as the real bad asses.

The only thing left to do is check your mixture after 100 miles or so. It may need richening. 

 
Slash Cutting The V-Star Stock Pipes

 

One of the first things you probably wanted to change on your new V-Star is the stock exhaust system. 
The sound, or noticeable lack thereof, just don't seem to suit this beautiful bike. 
Benny Bryant on the Shooting Stars ( Alabama Delphi Forum)described a radical modification to the stock exhaust system that Benny developed and tested. 
This modification consists of cutting the end of the muffler off and removing the internal exhaust pipes and baffle plates. 
The following diagrams show both a side view and a top view of a muffler that has had the initial slash cut completed. 
The cut can be at any angle and at any distance from the end of the muffler given the following; 

If you are *NOT* going to completely gut the muffler, then the angle and distance from the end of the pipe must be such that the second baffle plate *MUST* remain intact.
If you want to gut the pipe it doesn't matter where the cut is since all the internal pipes and baffle plates will be removed anyway.
 
JUST MAKE SURE YOU HIT THE SECOND BAFFLE PLATE AND DON"T GO THROUGH ONE OF THE BAFFLE REDIRECTION PORTS! 
You can see the second baffle plate after the mufflers are slashed, you want the cut to be back a ways from the baffle plate.
Cut outside slash at 45 degrees and ended up about 3/4" behind, to the rear of the baffle plate.
The easiest way to make the slash cut is to find a local machine shop and have them do it for you on a horizontal band saw.
You can cut them yourself with a hack saw but it's difficult to get a straight and clean cut.
The machine shop route should cost around $15 Locate the position and angle of the cut and mark the cut line on the muffler using a felt tip pen.
Wrap the entire cut line with wide masking tape to prevent the chrome from chipping while the initial cut is made,however the chrome does actually hold up very well when the muffler is cut.
If going the machine shop route for the cut, I recommend protecting the chrome finish with wide masking tape.
This will help to keep the finish from getting scratched while clamped in the band saw.
You may also want to take a couple of blocks of soft wood to place in the jaws of the clamp, to further protect the finish.
   
The first two diagrams show the 650 and 1100 V-Star mufflers in a, "sort of see through" view. 
These diagrams are *not* to scale and merely intended to illustrate the construction and internal components of the mufflers.
The tags used to describe the components will be referenced throughout this write-up.
The following discussion will hopefully provide a basic understanding of the internal construction of the V-Star 650 exhaust system and the steps necessary to modify the mufflers to get 'that sound' you're after.
You can see this and other modifications to V-Stars and other bikes at Benny Bryant's company web site at  www.fantasiesonwheels.com 
Visit the Shooting Stars Over Alabama Delphi Forum for discussions and tips about V-Star modifications. 
For additional information on stock exhaust system mods ,visit the
Shooting Stars Over Alabama web page.
This picture shows the muffler mounted in a horizontal band saw with the slash cut about half way through the body of the muffler.
     
Here the end of the muffler is shown that has been cut away from the main body of the muffler. 
This picture shows the Double Body Wall, Final Exhaust Pipe and the First Baffle Plate at the very tip of the muffler.
This section is discarded. The view after the muffler has been cut.
This shows the Second Baffle Plate, Inner Exhaust Pipe and the Final Exhaust Pipe (the angled pipe that is cut off).  This muffler has been 'Down Slashed'.  Note the holes in the baffle plate.
These holes redirect exhaust gasses from the Final Baffle Chamber into the Inner Baffle Chamber.
The following diagram shows the side view of a fully gutted down slashed muffler.  All internals, pipes and baffle plates have been removed up to the Fourth Baffle Plate.  The Fourth Baffle Plate and the Primary Exhaust pipe remain untouched. 
The Double Body Wall may be removed or not.  If you side slash the mufflers then the Double Body Wall is really noticeable. 
You don't really notice it if the mufflers are down slashed.  It's a matter of taste.
 Details on how to go about removing the wall lining are discussed below. 
They sound more like aftermarket drag pipes but probably  deeper because of the volume of the stock muffler. 
The greater volume of the stock gutted muffler over a drag pipe, gives the exhaust gasses time to expand. 
This effectively gives you a deeper more mellow sound than straight 2" drag pipes.
For detailed how to, pics and examples of fully gutting your stock pipes, hop over to the SSOA web site article written by Benny Bryant,
  'GUTTING YOUR STOCK PIPES'
Below is a diagram .The thought process,... If you stop with just the initial slash cut, you effectively have what's known as a stage 3 muffler mod. 
With the stage 3 mod, you remove the End Cone and the First Baffle Plate. 
You then would break the Final Exhaust Pipe out of the Second Baffle Wall. 
Breaking the Final Exhaust Pipe out at this point is for appearance only. 
By removing the First Baffle Plate there is *NO* redirection of exhaust gasses,... just straight out the back.
  For example, Exhaust gasses enter the muffler through the Primary Exhaust Pipe into the Primary Baffle Chamber which doesn't do to much for the sound level. 
Then the exhaust travels through the Inner Exhaust Pipe, bypassing the Inner Baffle Chamber and out the back of the muffler.
In effect what you have is a 1" drag pipe with a little muffling effect at the open back end of the muffler.  It's high pitched and 'cracky' sounding.

After the initial slash cut is made, use a Dremel rotary tool to cut the Final Exhaust Pipe off and grind it down flush with the flange on the Second Baffle Plate. 
Use the fiberglass reinforced cut off wheels to do *all* the cutting and grinding. 
They cost more but the regular ones don't last at all.
A Flex Shaft attachment for the retort tool makes the job a lot easier because you can get the cut off wheel into much tighter places. 
In fact, you'll need the flex shaft attachment to cut off the Inner Exhaust Pipe. 
As the cut off wheels get worn down to about 1" in diameter, remove them from the Dremel and replace them with new ones. 
You'll need the 1" ones later on to cut off the Inner Exhaust Pipe.
Then cut off the Inner Exhaust Pipe but left about 1/8" sticking out beyond the Second Baffle Plate.
 You'll need this 1/8" 'lip' on the pipe to grab onto with needle nose vise grips.
Cut off the Inner Exhaust Pipe inside the Inner Baffle Chamber to allow the baffle chamber to be used to tone down the volume and give the exhaust a deeper sound.
By cutting the Inner Exhaust Pipe off inside the baffle chamber you effectively are re-using the chamber as an exhaust expansion type baffle.
The gasses no longer have a direct path out the back of the muffler but have a chance to expand and make better use of the muffler.
To cut the Inner Exhaust Pipe off inside the baffle chamber use the Dremel Flex Shaft Tool and the 1" worn down cut off wheels.
Make sure that the cut off wheel is sufficiently small enough to pass through the pipe.  Turn the Dremel on, adjust for moderately high speed and *SLOWLY* insert it into the pipe as far as you can while maintaining control of the tool end with both hands. 
Try to stay away from the pipe walls until you reach the cut point, then begin to cut the pipe.
WEAR GOGGLES OR GLASSES to protect the eyes!  Go slow! 
Once the pipe is cut off all the way around on the inside, grind away or cut the spot welds between the pipe and the Second Baffle Plate. 
Use the needle nose vise grips on the 1/8" lip and pull the pipe out.
To remove the Double Body Wall use the Dremel, again, to carefully cut it out around the entire perimeter of the muffler.
Leave about a 3/4" width ring of the double wall in the muffler.
This 'ring' is spot welded to the Second Baffle Plate in four places and will have to be removed one section at a time since you can't get to the welds to grind or cut them away.
Be careful when cutting out the double wall. 
If you cut into or grind the main muffler wall it will be noticeable when you're done,
especially if you paint the inside with aluminum instead of black.
To remove the double wall ring, first make a very sharp chisel out of an old flat blade screwdriver.
Ground the flat blade to a sharp edge with the Dremel tool using the flat side of a cut off wheel. 
The spot welds holding the wall to the baffle plate are evenly spaced at 90 degree intervals around the perimeter of the ring.
The diagram above shows the spot welds but the exact orientation may differ from muffler to muffler.
The diagram is for illustration purposes only and is not in scale detail.
Notice that the 'Cut Here' mark is located exactly between two of the spot weld positions.
Use the chisel, starting on the ring's edge and between two of the spot welds, to cut the ring from the outside edge down to the baffle plate.
Cut the ring in four places so that you have four large tabs, each held in place to the baffle plate by the spot weld at the bottom center of each tab.
Grab each tab in turn with needle nose vise grips, and wiggle back and forth until the tab breaks off at the spot weld.
What you should be left with is four barely noticeable spot welds on the baffle plate.
Be careful when cutting the ring with the chisel that you don't cut or gouge the main muffler wall. You're almost done!
 
Clean up the slash cut with a small file and a couple of different grades of emery cloth.
  Use very fine emery cloth to smooth the main wall edges and to sand smooth and clean the exposed areas inside the muffler.
Paint the baffle plate with high temp black and the exposed main muffler walls with aluminum high temp.
  Attach two fender washers to the front of the baffle plate, over the holes directly in front of the Inner Exhaust Pipes .
Use large toggle bolts behind the baffle plate to hold the fender washers in place.
The threads of the screws into the toggle bolts were dipped with high temp RTV to act as thread lock to keep the washers and toggle bolts in place.
This makes a *big* difference in the sound. 
The problem is that the exhaust gasses are still blowing out the back, directly through the hole left in the baffle plate after removing the section of Inner Exhaust Pipe, and by plugging the hole, the exhaust has more time to expand before exiting the muffler.
  This part is strictly a matter of taste.
Put the fender washers in after reinstalling the exhaust system and checking it out.
It's a little work to do this modification but the results are awesome. 
  Mechanics (not a Yami dealer) tells that the stock exhaust system would last up to three times longer and was much better quality than many aftermarket systems. 
I don't know if this is true, but it is nice to hear .
 
Do It Yourself Seat Studs

  • 1. Remove the seat 
  • 2. Decide how far apart you want the studs and how far down from the seat seam you want them
  • 3. Carefully measure and mark the seat with a white china marker or whatever you have on hand to indicate the centerpoint of where you will mount the stud 
  • 4. Pull the staples holding the seat material to the plastic base out with a needle nose pliers (the seat material is adhered to the foam in the seat area but not on the sides where the studs will go)
  • 5. Take the stud and align it with the center point and push the two prongs of the studs through the material (the prongs are pointed and will push through easily, then fold over the two studs to complete the attachment
  • 6. Staple the material back onto the seat base.

How many studs on the seat:
One centered at the rear of the seat and 11 on each side.
No studs in the area where your legs would touch and possibly snag and rip them out. 

Spacing of the studs
Start stud spacing on centerline of seat
The Finished Results
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